Grand Canyon of Yellowstone (morning)

 

True to our usual routine, we rose early and set out to stay ahead of the crowds. Our day began at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone—a strikingly deep and narrow gorge that, while smaller than the famed Grand Canyon, is no less captivating.

Pictured above is Lower Falls, a spectacular cascade that is the largest waterfall in the Rocky Mountains of the United States, with a height of 94 metres. It was formed by the Yellowstone River flowing over resistant volcanic rock.

Below the Lower Falls, the powerful Yellowstone River carves a deep path through the sandstone canyon, its currents fierce and unrelenting.

We spotted a squirrel with an impressively bushy tail, darting around in typical squirrel fashion, nervously clutching a nut in its mouth as it scouted for the perfect hiding spot. Much of the canyon and part of the waterfall were cast in shadow, so we decided to return later in the day when the lighting would be more ideal for viewing and photography.

Yellowstone North Entrance and Mammoth Hot Springs

 

We finally made it to Yellowstone! And the sign proves it.

Entering the park through the iconic Roosevelt Arch, a towering stone gateway steeped in history, set the perfect tone for this leg of the trip.

Just beyond the entrance, we were thrilled to spot a small herd of Pronghorns, the only species of antelope native to North America, grazing peacefully in the open fields.

We continued to Fort Yellowstone, only a few kilometres inside the park gate. This site serves as both the historic and present-day administrative center of Yellowstone National Park and features a well-equipped visitor center that offers valuable insights into the park’s history and operations. The layout of Fort Yellowstone is that of a typical western army post.

Nearby lies the natural wonder, Mammoth Hot Springs, known for its striking travertine (calcium carbonate) terraces formed by mineral-laden hot water rising from underground. The photo above captures the Lower Terrace, which is essentially the bottom step of the natural staircase.

Next to the Lower Terrace stands the Liberty Cap (above), a dormant hot spring deposit, formed by travertine deposition over time as hot water cooled and mineral deposits accumulated.

On the Lower Terrace, a group of elk was resting peacefully, while the dominant bull elk roamed the perimeter, bugling loudly to ward off any rival males and protect his harem.

Eventually, the herd wandered off, likely in search of fresh vegetation to graze on.

As the elk herd moved on, so did we, mindful that daylight was fading and we still had about 50 kilometers to cover before reaching Canyon Village.

Along the way, we made an unplanned stop at Tower Junction after spotting our first bison herd, calmly grazing near the roadside.

We also took a brief detour to admire Tower Fall—a stunning 40-metre waterfall framed by tall, narrow rock spires.

We were fortunate to catch sight of a mountain sheep skillfully navigating the steep slopes high above the waterfall. By this time, night was beginning to fall, and we still had around 25 kilometers to cover, including the winding, high-altitude stretch through Dunraven Pass. We reached Canyon Village just as dusk settled in—just in time to check in, get settled, and enjoy a well-earned meal at the Canyon Eatery.

Seattle exit. Success! The path to Yellowstone.

 

With yesterday’s travel fiasco behind us, we packed up in no time—mainly because most of our belongings were already waiting for us in Bozeman. The weather had taken a turn for the worse; it wasn’t just raining—it was downright cold, making it feel like winter was closing in. Determined not to repeat the chaos of yesterday, we arrived at the airport early, giving ourselves more than enough time to breeze through security, which was thankfully much calmer today. We even had time to grab a proper breakfast inside the terminal.

As the plane lifted off toward Bozeman, a wave of relief and excitement washed over us, finally, we were back on track and ready to continue our adventure. Bozeman is one of three main airports providing access to Yellowstone National Park. Compared to the alternatives—Jackson Hole and West Yellowstone—Bozeman is the more practical choice. The other two typically involve two connecting flights and can take up the better part of a day, not to mention they tend to be significantly more expensive.

We touched down in Bozeman just after midday local time, and it felt great to be back in Big Sky Country after more than a decade. I’m not usually one to praise airports, but Bozeman is a clear exception. With its stunning architecture and warm, log cabin-inspired timber design, it creates an immediate sense of welcome. The skies were clear, and we were thrilled to finally be on our way to Yellowstone National Park.

We had a bit of a delay at the airport sorting out our luggage, which had been held overnight since our missed flight. Once we tracked it down, we joined the queue to pick up our rental car—another small wait before we could finally hit the road. Kerri got her first real experience driving on the "right" (or as she joked, the wrong) side of the road, which made for some fun commentary. Before leaving Bozeman, we swung by a supermarket to stock up on essentials and grab some lunch.

Then it was off on the scenic hour-and-a-half drive toward the gateway village of Gardiner and the North Entrance of Yellowstone National Park.

Montana earns its nickname “Big Sky Country” for good reason—the vast open plains stretch endlessly beneath a sweeping blue sky. As we headed south, the landscape shifted dramatically, giving way to striking, snow-capped mountain ranges.

After leaving the wide lanes of Interstate 90 at Livingston and merging onto Highway 89, the towering peaks began to close in around us. With late autumn settling in, some trees had already started to turn, their leaves adding bursts of colour under the soft, golden sunlight. 

We finally arrived in Gardiner—24 hours later than originally planned. Our itinerary had us staying in the village the night before, which would have given us the full day to explore the northern reaches of Yellowstone en route to Canyon Village. Unfortunately, with the delay, we are left with just a few hours to squeeze in a couple of quick stops before needing to reach our hotel before nightfall.