South America - Day 37
Abysmo Cave Repel and Snorkel
We had to set off early for the today's activity to make sure we were back in time to pack our gear & get on the bus for the next journey section of the trip.
The activity for the day was the Abysmo Cave. Pictured is a fissure in the ground similar to a few other limestone caves I've been to, particularly around the Margaret River area in Western Australia's South West. The caves I've been to all have steps & handrails to get down into the cave. Not this one
The activity for the day was the Abysmo Cave. Pictured is a fissure in the ground similar to a few other limestone caves I've been to, particularly around the Margaret River area in Western Australia's South West. The caves I've been to all have steps & handrails to get down into the cave. Not this one
The
Abysmo Cave is a little more difficult to access than most. This is why
we were at the climbing gym the night before. We had to put our gear in
a big bag that was sent down by rope. It was just up to us to rig up and descend into the cave.
It's 72m to the bottom of the cave and even though we were repelling,
it took a long time to get down there. It was pretty fun and the
longest repel I've ever done.
The landing point at the bottom was a small floating platform. Oh, did I
mention that the Abysmo Cave was flooded with 20m of water? There are
two floating platforms in the cave joined by the walkway in shot. The
second platform is for setting up for snorkeling and scuba diving
As you can see, it's quite a way from the surface. I took this photo standing on the landing platform.
The Abysmo cave is very difficult to photograph. There is little natural
light and there is no lens in the world wide enough to capture what
you see. This one was the best I could do with my SLR. If you look
closely at the photo you will see some limestone structures in the clear
turquoise water.
I
can't take credit for this photo (and probably could be done for
copyright), but it's the best I can do to get the message across. The
cave wasn't always flooded & had conventional stalagmites &
stalactites like most limestone caves. Once the cave flooded, the water
started to erode the stalagmites leaving behind these ghostly
structures. Yes you can scuba dive but the cost is quite prohibitive. We
took the snorkel option & I don't see that scuba diving would have
bought us much more to look at. Having said that I'm sure that looking
up toward the surface from the bottom of these 15-20m towers would have
been something quite unique.
The
first thing we did once we were down in the cave was to climb aboard a
rubber dingy and take a tour of the cave. Our cave guide paddled us
around avoiding the stalactites (above). The water was crystal clear
so we could look into the water and see the entire 20m to the base of
them. They were so strange and surreal.
On our little boat tour, we saw some more conventional limestone cave structures like this forest.
This unfortunate animal (probably a deer) discovered the cave some centuries ago, but it was the last thing it did.
The water wasn't nearly as inviting as Rio da Prata the previous day.
The bright sunshine, multitudes of colourful fish & pleasant water
temperature was replace by darkness, 16C water temps (I shouldn't
complain because I dived in 12C in the rive in Perth last week) and
eerie white figures. We had full length 5mm wet suits with hood, gloves
& boots. This time the gear was to protect us from the chilly water.
We looked a bit silly, but the only other person who we knew in that
cave was Mike & he looked as silly as us.
The cave wasn't devoid of life. These little tetras were doing there bit
for the ecosystem in the cave. There mustn't be much food in the water
because they came and attacked our toes as soon as we put them in the
water.
I'm not too sure how long we were in the water for, but it was quite a
while. We swam a lap around the entire pool checking out all the little
niches in the place. Initially we used our torches but once we worked
out that they were only good for looking at small patches, we turned
them off and let our eyes adjust. Once they did it opened up a the
most surreal dive I've done. I can only compare it to the first time I
did a night dive for intrigue but this was completely unique and
thoroughly enjoyed it.
The stalactites had become eerie shadows in a strange blue world. I can't really even describe it properly. I guess it's just one of those things you just have to see for yourself. It has whetted my appetite for diving after a year and a half in the frozen north.
The stalactites had become eerie shadows in a strange blue world. I can't really even describe it properly. I guess it's just one of those things you just have to see for yourself. It has whetted my appetite for diving after a year and a half in the frozen north.
Repelling down into the cave was all fun & games, but we still had
to get back to the surface. The only way up was to climb. They hooked us
up and sent Mike and Kerri toward the entrance. It turned out that the
climb to the surface wasn't as easy as it looked. We climbed about 5 m
the night before. That was easy. This fast became hard work. It took a
few minutes just to take up the stretch from the rope and get off the
landing deck. It ended up being a 30-45min epic climb to the top. It was
still totally worth it.
I had half an hour to kill in the cave while the other two were climbing.
For a short time each day (weather depending) the sun shines through a fissure in the cave and the light beam appears (if you can actually spot it landing in the centre of picture). It was there for no more than 10 mins.
For a short time each day (weather depending) the sun shines through a fissure in the cave and the light beam appears (if you can actually spot it landing in the centre of picture). It was there for no more than 10 mins.
The operators of the cave were good enough to take some photos as
we were coming up. The one below was taken a few minutes before Mike &
Kerri reached the surface.
By the time I'd come up as well, we were all
exhausted and exhilarated at the same time. We jumped back in the cab
& headed back to the hotel.
The
day dragged on a bit after that. We had a shower & packed our gear.
in doing so, we discovered that
Kerri had left her pocket camera in the cab! NO! We spent some effort
trying to track it down & retrieve it without much hope. Suellen was
pretty confident so we crossed our fingers. [Edit: We did manage to
retrieve the camera but it only arrived from its extended holiday in
March! It's a very
long story but we did get it back along with some of the photos we took
in the cave and some from Rio da Prata the previous day. Phew!]
We had a few hours to kill before we had to leave. Kerri was by that
stage feeling quite ill and crashed in the one room the group still
had to keep our gear. I spent some time on the Internet and wandering
around finding snacks for the next 24hrs of travel. The small bus
finally arrived to take us to the "near by" city of Dourados to hook up
with a night bus. We had dinner at a western style shopping mall food
court (it was the first sign of the western world for over a month).
We caught the night bus around 11pm. It wasn't the most comfortable bus but I was so shattered that I slept anyway.
We caught the night bus around 11pm. It wasn't the most comfortable bus but I was so shattered that I slept anyway.