Friday, 26 September 2008

Lima

South America Day 2

Mira Flores

After a bit of a sleep in, we went downstairs of the hotel for breakfast. We met a few others from our tour (Mike, Vixi, Nic & Polly). We decided to explore Lima for the day as a group more because we were scared little tourists in a strange land. Turns out that it wasn't so scary after all.
We wandered around the commercial district of Mire Flores where we were staying. That wasn't so interesting, so we headed for the ocean. Mira Flores sits at the top of a decent cliff that overlooks the Pacific Ocean (pictured). There's a very westernised tourist oriented shopping centre at the top. Our first Tourist Trap for the adventure. We had a cool drink at the garden restaurant (just next to Kerri's left elbow in shot).

San Francisco Church 

Around midday, we jumped in a couple of cabs and headed to the San Francisco church near the Lima city centre. The cab ride was an experience and a half! The Lima drivers (particularly the cabbies) are nuts! They have no idea about road rules or courtesy lane markings are more of a guide than anything & I don't think I saw a speed limit sign. Most cars are bombs in complete disrepair & have dings & rust everywhere. Hardly surprising when you see how they drive. The idea of maintenance isn't exactly prevalent.

Eventually we arrived at the church after out eventful ride. It's not an overly intriguing church, but nice enough. There is one particular aspect that makes it a well visited church.
The Catacombes
This would be the reason behind the popularity of the San Francisco Church. Under the church is a labyrinth of catacombs where residents of Lima were buried for a couple of centuries. It's a bit odd because the display as it is today is as a result of archaeologists excavating what is basically a cemetery & arranging the bones in neat piles. Pictured is a well of sorts that was used when the catacombs were full. Again, the archaeologists excavated & re-arranged the remains. It's all very macabre. As it turned out, it was by no means the last church called San Francisco that we visited on our trip.
These became a familiar sight in Peru & Bolivia. They're the equivalent of you're suburban council bus. The difference is that they're in no better shape than the taxis & are driven by mad men! We were warned not to use then because of pick pockets & muggers. I was more worried about other more dangerous issues like deceleration trauma (vehicle accidents).
That night we met the rest of the GAP group we were going to spend at least the next 21 days with. We also met out tour guide for the first half of out adventure. Our 45 day GAP tour from Lima to Rio was made up of 2 shorter tours. The first one is called "Andean Discovery" (see map below). It's pretty much a lap around Peru crossing into Bolivia on the last day and finishing in La Paz.

After the little meeting we all went out for diner & got to meet everyone. Most of the clan were U25 English girls. Add Mike (the single guy), a couple (Melissa & Richard) from London, a school teacher couple from Western Ireland (Nora & Vincent) and us, & you have the group of 14 for the first leg of the trip. It turned out that most were going on to Bolivia & Brazil as well. More on the individuals later.

Thursday, 25 September 2008

South American Adventure

<edit: By the time I had time to write about our South American odyssey, four months had gone but. I only hope I can remember enough to make it interesting. We did keep a diary for the six weeks, so hopefully I didn't miss too many important details.>

Above is an overview of our South American adventure. We started in Lima, Peru (left of map) and finished in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Day 1 - Travel to Lima, Peru

Today we set of from Calgary and being late in September when the leaves have already dropped off the trees. So the long brown of winter had started and it was getting a bit on the cool side. Our flight took us through Houston, Texas and over the Caribbean (unfortunately late in the evening by that point). We arrived in Lima around 11.30pm local time & were quite relieved to finally get to bed around 12.30am. That wasn't until after our first taste of crazy South American driving from the airport to the hotel (more on the crazy driving later). We'd been awake since 4am Calgary time (about 1hr behind Lima).
There's nothing particularly interesting to note from the day other than we confirmed that Texans are true to popular belief... They're huge (obese) people!

Sunday, 21 September 2008

Montana & Glacier National Park

This morning, Sandra & Jim headed back to Calgary (and work) while we headed south of the border, this time by road into Montana. The plan was to drive through Glacier National Park and on to Whitefish. The photo above is just a random butt just on the US side of the border.

Glacier National Park

We drove out to Lake Sherbourne along the way. It's in the north east corner of Glacier National Park. There wasn't much to see, because the weather had turned straight out nasty! Apparently the wildlife around this area is prolific, but we were there a bit late in the morning and we weren't overly keen to get out of the car into the freezing wind.

Logan Pass

I did the research before coming down here and was of the understanding that the main park road 'Road to the Sun' would be open for us. Wrong. As per usual, the yanks fed us wrong information and started their roadworks a week early. We'd come all this way and decided to take the Road to the Sun as far as we could, which turned out to be to Logan Pass. At the summit, we could see a waterfall cascading down to opposite hillside.

Unfortunately the weather was so bad that we couldn't see much because everything was surrounded by cloud. The wind was joined by rain, then sleet, followed by snow. We had to drive back to the park gate and then drive all the way around the perimeter of the park adding about 300kms to the trip. Not happy!
Whitefish wasn't anything remarkable, but not a bad place to stay for the night either. It's close to Glacier Nat Park or the ski resorts near by. I can see the potential for Glacier National Park, but we need to visit a bit earlier in the year next time. Unfortunately it was disappointing this time around.
Tomorrow we make the long drive back to Calgary where we have to prepare for our six week South American adventure in a few days.

Saturday, 20 September 2008

Waterton Lakes National Park

Today was just another typical day in Waterton. Wonderful scenery and wildlife everywhere you look.
From past experience we knew that the best times to go animal spotting are early in the morning and late in the evening. Early in the morning is always better because the pesky humans are still in bed asleep. The four of us set off along Red Rock Canyon road first thing and, sure enough, we found a black bear and her two year old cub.
The hillside at this time of year is covered with various berry bushes so the bears were having a field day.
Conditions were good after breakfast so we jumped in the boat and headed out on the lake again.
This time out we decided to go all the way to the end of the lake instead of just sneaking across the border and back. The lake was so still and every geographical formation had an identical twin on the lake. The Waterton Steamer was out on the lake as well. Even that large boat didn't have much impact on the pristine surface.
At the south end of the lake this border crossing hut is the last line of defense for the USA. People do hike from this point deep into Glacier National Park (Montana) and require a customs stamp to do so. Waterton and Glacier National Parks are set up as a joint national park across the two countries. It's a great concept and the wildlife in both parks is quite exceptional. Not quite the same levels as Alaska, but not far off. Unlike the humans, the animals are free to move between the two countries without a passport.
This is the view back toward Waterton from the south end of Waterton Lake (from just in front of the customs hut).
It doesn't make any sense and sounds a bit cliche'. but Waterton Lake seems to look greener south of the border.
On the way back to the township, things were going along fine for until we came out from behind a spit of land and into a stiff head wind that had come from nowhere. It made for a bit of a rough and wet trip for a while. Then there was a splutter from the motor and it stopped. We were out in the middle of the lake with either a long paddle or a swim back to shore. Jim decided a check of the fuel tank was in order. Sure enough it was nearly empty. A top up before we left would probably have been a good idea, but there was a plan. We tilted the fuel tank and managed to get just enough out of it to get us back to the shore just in front of the Waterton town site. The photo above was taken from the place where we finally had to beach. All ended well but it was a very close shave! It just goes to show that you don't have to be 50kms off shore to get into trouble on the water.
Our first visit to Waterton didn't draw a blank with the buffalo paddock, but you couldn't get at all close to the animals. It turns out that in summer, you can drive around paved a loop road inside the buffalo paddock and get really close to them. These guys were a mater of a few metres away from the car.
We were even treated to a couple of the bulls head butting.
Late morning we went for a drive out to Cameron Lake. The end part of the road was closed last time we were in the area so it was new territory for us. Along the way there were some nice views of Cameron Creek (above).
At the end of our little drive we reached Cameron Lake. Judging by the infrastructure, it was the more popular destination of the two roads in the park. The weather wasn't exactly our friend but we walked along the lake shore trail to it's end (about 2/3 of the way to the cliff face in the photo above). Beyond that point is a no go zone because of a healthy grizzly population. We were sceptical because we saw absolutely no sign of them. I'd like to check out Cameron Lake early in the morning when the animals are around. Apparently, aside from the grizzlies, the moose tend to be fairly common around the lake. A lesson learned and another excuse to go back.
A side story is that the wild berries were out in a big way. The lake shore trail was bordered by a seemingly endless supply of wild raspberries. I'm not too sure what the park rules are, but I couldn't help but graze on them along the way. They have so much flavour concentrated into a tiny little package. They're way better than the domestic raspberries.
The loon is the national bird of Canada. They're a weird looking creature with an even weirder call (you'll understand if you've ever heard one). They're like a duck with a really long beak. These two were floating around on Cameron Lake.
Here's a bird from shorter range. The Steller's Jay (above) is the same species as the ones that were stealing Boo the Bear's dinner at Kicking horse. They're cheeky little things. This one wasn't afraid of people and set about clearing out any scraps that careless humans had left behind after lunch (us included).
Here's another pretty little spot along Cameron Creek. It's only a tiny little waterfall, but worth a photo anyway.
Our visit to Waterton happened to co-inside with the Elk Rut. Most of the year these guys hang around together in small herds. Once the rut starts, the males get all cranky and fight for a patch. He may be hard to spot in this photo, but there's a big bull sitting down in the long grass next to a pile of tree branches.
The thing that goes along with the rut is a horrible noise. The bull elk make a dreadful screeching noise that can't be described. The closest likeness I can come up with is a donkey's ee-aw. It travels for miles and when you have a number of them at it, it's far from peaceful. They bang their antlers against the trees as well, just to add to the ruckus. We stopped in the woods for a bit and listened to the elk do their thing.
This is the reason why the bull elk go nuts. A herd of females with their yearlings. I'm sure they have no idea what the noise is all about sometimes.
It wasn't just the Elk that were in full antler and cranky. The mule deer were in the same situation, just not so noisy. This one was grazing on the local school oval.

During the last two days we have enjoyed exploring Waterton Lakes but seem to have only scratched the surface. Maybe another time.