West Yellowstone

 

It had been a full day packed with sightseeing, and by the end, we were feeling a little worn out. We checked into the Gray Wolf Inn, our home base for the next few days, before strolling down the main street to explore West Yellowstone.

West Yellowstone sits just outside the park’s west entrance and offers far more amenities than the more remote Canyon Village in the park’s interior. The town boasts a wide range of restaurants, numerous souvenir stores, adventure tour kiosks, and fishing outfitters, as well as several quality clothing shops catering to tourists. The souvenir stoes offer everything from fridge magnets and keychains to pocket-knives and quirky coffee mugs.

Harry found an ice cream cone that was bigger than the one from Pike Place, Seattle. Not nearly as tastey though. Very bland and a bit plasticy.

I met one of the locals who wasn't very talkative. He was a bit of a stiff to be honest.

We also spotted some fantastic T-shirts sporting funny Yellowstone slogans and some that were just quality shits and jumpers. I treated myself to a high-quality, super-warm hoodie that I’m sure will remain a favourite for years to come.

cattered throughout the open spaces of the town is a herd of 36 painted bison statues, each one decorated with a unique landscape or scene. Harry has an important public safety message about the bison in the park.

After dinner, we headed back to the hotel, where guests are treated to a complimentary bag of goodies for making s’mores. Just steps from the entrance, a cozy fire pit waits—perfect for roasting marshmallows to golden perfection before indulging in the gooey, sweet delight.

For those who aren’t familiar, s’mores are a classic North American campfire treat made by sandwiching a large, toasted marshmallow and a piece of chocolate between two crisp graham crackers. The heat melts the chocolate and softens the marshmallow, creating a sweet, gooey indulgence.

Artist's Paint Pots

 

Artist’s Paint Pots offers an eclectic array of geothermal features, including vibrant hot pools, bubbling mud pots, and small geysers. Thanks to the high concentration of iron oxide in the soil, shades of red dominate the landscape, creating a striking visual contrast.

During our visit, we also had a close encounter with a squirrel and a chipmunk—both surprisingly unfazed by our presence.

The standout attraction in this colorful area is Blood Geyser. True to its name, it bubbles persistently and occasionally erupts, sending bursts of water up to 1.8 meters into the air (sadly not while were were there).

At the upper end of the Paint Pots area lies the Mud Pots—a fascinating display of geothermal activity where thick, grey mud continuously bubbles and churns. Smaller bubbles percolate constantly, while occasional larger bursts erupt, briefly disturbing the surface.

Gibbon Falls

Our final stop of the day was at Gibbon Falls, where the Gibbon River plunges dramatically over the edge of the ancient Yellowstone Caldera. At 26 meters high, Gibbon Falls may not rival the drama of Tower Fall or the mighty falls in the Canyon, yet it still captivates visitors. As the water fans out over the rocks it creates a mesmerizing, almost hypnotic effect that’s hard to look away from.

Norris Back Basin

 

After exploring Porcelain Basin, we made our way to Norris Back Basin, home to some of the area’s most striking geothermal features. Near the entrance lies one of the most vividly colored attractions—Emerald Spring (above). Its stunning turquoise hue comes from the sulphur-rich water, which absorbs every color of light except blue.

Steamboat Geyser, the tallest geyser on Earth, erupts unpredictably every 3 to 6 months, sending scalding water soaring over 90 meters into the sky. During our visit, we watched it bubble and sputter dramatically for about 15 minutes—but unfortunately, we didn’t witness one of its rare full-scale eruptions.

Positioned across the boardwalk from Steamboat Geyser, Cistern Spring is another striking turquoise pool in the Norris Back Basin. Subsurface connections link it directly to Steamboat Geyser, causing it to drain whenever Steamboat erupts. Typically, Cistern Spring overflows steadily, depositing around 36 millimeters of sinter annually.

Echinus Geyser was once known for its reliable eruptions, which occurred every 35 to 75 minutes and sent acidic water as high as 18 meters into the air. However, in the late 1990s, its activity began to decline, and it hasn't erupted since 2020. As the largest of the rare acidic geysers—its water has a pH level similar to vinegar—Echinus is also unique in the Norris Back Basin for the distinctive red mineral deposits that ring its vent.

Norris Back Basin is dotted with numerous smaller springs and geysers, each with its own distinct charm. Crater Spring (above), often seen as a miniature version of Emerald Spring, features similar vivid coloring on a smaller scale.

Green Dragon Spring (above) makes a dramatic impression with thick steam continuously billowing from the sulfur-lined cave at its source. While it shares some similarities with Dragon’s Mouth Spring in the Mud Volcano area, Green Dragon differs in one key aspect: instead of muddy water, a steady stream of clear, green-hued water flows gracefully from the cave into the outside pool.

Yellow Funnel Spring (above) may not be among the most dramatic features in Norris Back Basin, but it stands out with its distinctive yellow coloration, giving it a subtle yet unique appeal.

Our favorite highlight in the Norris Back Basin was Vixen Geyser. We were fortunate to arrive during an ongoing eruption that had already been in action for an hour. It's known for its unpredictable and temperamental eruptions, which is why it was named "Vixen". Though modest in size, this feisty geyser is one of the most animated in the area, vigorously shooting water up to 10 meters into the air with impressive energy.

As we explored Norris Basin, it became clear that many geysers can appear quite unremarkable when they’re not actively erupting. If we hadn’t caught Vixen Geyser in action, we might have questioned why it even warranted a sign along the boardwalk.

Years ago, Minute Geyser (above) lived up to its name by erupting every 60 seconds, launching jets of water up to 15 meters high. Unfortunately, over time, careless visitors threw rocks into the vent, clogging its natural channel. Today, this once-spectacular geyser has been reduced to a faint reminder of its former power.

We were fairly impressed by the geothermal wonders of Norris Basin—its variety of features and occasional eruptions made for a fascinating visit. However, we're curious to see how it compares to the renowned Old Faithful geyser area, which we plan to explore tomorrow.

As we continued our journey toward West Yellowstone, we took a break at a pullout overlooking Gibbon Meadows to enjoy lunch. These open meadows offer a peaceful contrast to the surrounding dense forest, formed by the seasonal flooding of the winding Gibbon River. The lush grasslands had attracted a couple of bison, adding a classic Yellowstone touch to the tranquil setting.

Porcelian Basin

 

As we made our way to West Yellowstone, we took time to explore a few key attractions, starting with the Norris Geyser Basin. This geothermal area is divided into two sections: the Back Basin and the Porcelain Basin, where we began our visit.

We strolled along the boardwalks surrounding Porcelain Basin, taking in the diverse and fascinating array of geothermal features scattered throughout the landscape.

Black Growler Steam Vent releases a steady stream of dense, swirling vapor just steps from the boardwalk.

Nearby, Hurricane Vent steals the show with its dramatic intensity—backlit by the sun, its billowing steam casts eerie, shifting shadows.

Porcelain Springs stretches out as a sprawling basin, bursting with vividly colored spitting vents, shimmering pools, and bubbling geysers.

Nuphar Lake is slowly expanding, gradually submerging and poisoning the surrounding trees as its mineral-rich waters encroach further into the forested areas.

Congress Pool was actively venting steam, churning its waters into a murky, turbulent mix as the geothermal activity stirred up mud from below.

Near Hurricane Vent, we spotted a squirrel darting frantically through the trees, snipping off pine cones with urgency—as if it sensed winter closing in fast.

The boardwalk running through the heart of Porcelain Basin allows visitors to explore several geothermal attractions, including the Colloidal Pool.

Tantalus Creek cuts through the basin, channeling excess water beneath the central boardwalk. Near the point where the creek and boardwalk meet lies a striking turquoise pool that houses the Whirligig Geyser (above right).

Crackling Lake stands out as an anomaly, its vibrant green hue contrasting sharply with the surrounding sea of blue thermal features.

Tantalus Creek flows westward through the One Hundred Spring Plain, winding past Crackling Lake as it makes its way across the landscape.

Leaving Canyon Village

 

This morning greeted us with another sharp chill, as temperatures once again dropped well below freezing. After spending three nights in Canyon Village, we’re now heading to West Yellowstone where we'll stay for the remainder of the Yellowstone leg of our adventure.

With the car packed and ready, we took advantage of the early start to scout for wildlife along Dunraven Pass, but unfortunately, it proved to be a bit of a letdown—even the usually reliable bison were nowhere to be seen.

We made a quick return to Canyon Village to pick up some rolls for lunch before commencing our journey along the Norris–Canyon Road toward West Yellowstone. We have several planned stops and scenic attractions enroute.

Tower Fall and Dunvegan Pass

 After wrapping up our Mammoth tour, we made our way back down the now-familiar route to Canyon Village. Along the way, we paused at Tower Fall, taking extra time to soak in the surrounding scenery, starting with the waterfall itself.

During our walk along the trail to the falls, we spotted an interesting little creature—a woolly bear caterpillar—minding its own business.

A nearby roadside pullout offered a striking view of the Yellowstone River winding past Tower Fall.

Looming above the area is the impressive volcanic basalt formation known as Overhanging Cliff, casting its shadow over the viewpoint.

After leaving Tower Fall, we headed up Dunraven Pass toward Mount Washburn, pausing at several lookout spots in hopes of spotting a rare bear or wolf. 

Although we faced a few letdowns along the way, our patience paid off when a coyote appeared just a few metres from the lookout!

We were thrilled as we watched him trot down the hillside and disappear into the tall, dry grass—blending in so seamlessly he was nearly impossible to spot.

At the next scenic stop, we had another memorable wildlife encounter—this time with a massive bison bull. Unfazed and determined, he stayed his course, bringing traffic to a standstill in classic Yellowstone fashion.

The bison slowly made his way toward the lookout where we were parked, grazing as he went. He strolled directly beside and in front of our car, paused to scratch himself against the wooden barriers, and then calmly continued up the hill.

Although we felt a bit uneasy being so close to such a massive animal—especially one known for its temper—we kept a respectful distance, and he paid us little mind. It was yet another incredible wildlife moment we’d been hoping for since the day began.

As we began our descent into Canyon Village, we made time for one final lookout stop. From this vantage point, we could take in the dramatic ravine of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, with the distant, snow-capped peaks of the eastern ridge of the Yellowstone Caldera stretching across the horizon—a fitting end to our day of exploration.