Visit Uros Islands & return to Puno

South America Day 20
Home Stay Exit

I woke up early coughing again the next morning (annoying the crap out of Kerri). We decided to get dressed and pack up our gear so that we would be ready to go as soon as we could.

The last night had been very uncomfortable with the language and cultural boundaries. The underlying issue I talked about before was more about us invading their homes. They seemed not to be too worried because we bought food supplies as gifts for them. I just sensed that it was weird for them that us rich westerners were staying in their simple houses. Having said that, they seemed to be prospering from the billeting because they'd added a whole new building to their house complex (below). I still couldn't wait to get out of there. I milled around outside (above) and admired the view. What else was I going to do?

Finally! Breakfast. It wasn't the Weetbix and milk we're accustomed to back in Oz, but it did the job. I just couldn't face the eggs which I'm sure were a big thing for them to offer us. They were just boiled eggs, but I just wasn't feeling well.
The kitchen/dining room had a plain earth floor and a fireplace in the corner. It was pretty basic. Again it was all pretty weird with the language barriers a big problem. The Dad was pretty friendly and smiley, but the mum was a bit on the cranky side.

The wait was excruciating, but finally it was time to grab our stuff and head back down the hill to the boat. We were so relieved. The kids were all friendly as kids the world over are, but the rest of the experience wasn't my favourite part of the trip. It was just plain awkward.

Uros Islands

After escaping the peninsular people, the boat took us close to Puno amongst the reed beds in the bay. Centuries ago some of the people of Puno took to living amongst the reeds to flee from invaders. They created floating islands using the buoyant reeds. These Islands are called the Uros islands.

The island we visited was Khantawi Island. The tourist operators share the tourists (and their money) around the different islands. Not so many years ago these people were still living a simple life as fishermen & weavers bartering with the people of the mainland for grain, meat etc.

We were 'treated' to a demonstration on how the islands were created & maintained. It was all very rushed & tacky but the message got through. They just pack the floating reed on top of each other & as they rot they sink allowing room for more fresh reeds on top. You can see a piece of an island in this photo. You can see the fresh reeds on top & the rotten reeds below almost looking like soil for the most part.

I'm not sure how it helped, but they put some live fish in this small bowl as part of the demonstration. These are the fish they catch in the lake. The problem was that the sun must have heated the water up or the bowl was too small. Either way it killed the fish. It was just a bit odd.

The Uros island men go out to fish (or go to the mainland to do regular jobs these days) while the women stay on the island making crafts. Above is one of the local craftswomen. I think she and her sister have been buying too many pies with the money they fleece from the tourists. The average Peruvians are scrawny folks that struggle to get enough nutrients to keep from fading away to a shadow. Not the case here let me assure you. More on the result of fleecing below.

 The problem with fleecing the tourists is this. Instead of the traditional way of life continuing (which the tourists come to see) the excess money they fleece from the tourists goes into all the western mod cons. The folk we'd stayed with the night before didn't have stereos, flat screen TVs or solar panels.
It's a shame to see, but if I were in their shoes, I'd probably do the same thing. Why wouldn't you make your life a bit more interesting & comfortable? It was just a shame that she was so proud to show it. It does spoil the illusion of the traditional lifestyle.

 Despite the touristy feel to the Uros islands, the local artisans are pretty good at their craft. Their rugs are very colourful and well made. Kerri ended up buying one off one of the pie eaters but I'd have to say it was somewhat in the high price bracket for what it was. She loves it so that's all that matters (so do the cats BTW & that's why it's now in the cupboard out of harm’s way)

With such small islands they've had to adopt an odd way of keeping animals. Pictured is a hole in the island where they have a smaller island to stop the guinea pigs getting away and a fish pen stocked with some sizable table fish.

Just to top off the tourist experience, we boarded this reed raft that looked very Egyptian, but apparently authentic. The island men paddled us for a lap around a couple of the islands & set us back on the island next to our cruise boat. Of course the lap wasn't free.

 As we were heading off for our hot lap, the crew left on the island gave us a send off dance & song. Unfortunately the song was a very corny English sailor song that I can't recall off hand (I think I'm trying to block it because it was too traumatic.) Points for effort, but someone needs to tell them to try a traditional song instead of an English one.

Waterbirds

The only other comment about Lake Titicaca is the bird life among the reed beds. The reeds are a haven for water birds & we saw plenty. Pictured above is a pair of Andean ducks. I like their blue bills. Below, a grieb of some sort.

Below are two more species of water birds. The black headed gulls we had seen in Canada, but the Crested Ducks are new.