Friday, 15 October 2010

Day 29 - Transit to Nairobi

We were up for another long day of travel. The day started with a nice breakfast at the hotel in Musanze. After breakfast I set about photographing the local birdlife including the black kites (above) circling on the thermals across the road from the hotel & the weever birds in the hotel gardens.Sharing the garden with the weever birds were regal sunbirds (below).We packed our gear into the car & spent half an hour or so checking out the local markets that had just about every type of produce you can find in the area along with other goods like hand bags, shoes, clothing and many other household items.
The next couple of hours were spent driving back to Kigali. We took in the scenery on the way which mainly looked a lot like the farmland pictured above & below. Its tough terrain, but the locals find ways to overcome the difficulties. Most of the trees are Australian Eucalypts that grow rapidly in the warm climate. They're used for everything from firewood to bridges.
We eventually reached Kigali. Robert gave us a more detailed tour of the city this time. What I noticed was the wide range of housing. At one extreme was the mud houses built side by side & at the other end of the spectrum, the massive gated mansions of the foreign diplomats & some of the politicians. In the middle, the government is busy building a huge number of mid range houses.
After another nice lunch Robert dropped us off at the airport. We said our good-byes & went through security. Kigali Airport isn't what you'd call a big airport but we were able to sit & watch tv until we boarded the flight. A clear example of the recovering economy of Rwanda is the shiny relatively new Canadian built jets own by RwandAir (below). Our plane even had a Canadian captain.
The flight took us East over the rolling hills then flood plains of Rwanda before flying over Lake Victoria. I knew Lake Victoria was big, but until we'd flown over it I had no idea quite how big. It was getting dark by the time we landed in Nairobi (and it gets dark very quickly near the equator). The taxi ride to the hotel was interesting. It became abundantly clear that Nairobi was a busy city. Even in the seemingly endless traffic jam there were locals coming up to the car trying to sell us things.
We were glad to finally arrive at the hotel. We cleaned up & had dinner at the hotel. We spent the rest of the evening washing our clothes in the room. It would be our last opportunity for the rest of the trip.

Thursday, 14 October 2010

Day 28 - Mountain Gorillas

Kerri had been building up for this day for months. The main reason she wanted to go to Africa was to see the mountain gorillas. I can't say I was as excited, but I was still amped up for the experience. A 5.30am start and early breakfast allowed us to get to the park HQ on time. Along the way we were able to get a better look at the row of five extinct volcanoes that form the boundary with the Rebublic of Congo (Mt. Sabyinyo above).At the park HQ we were given the run down about the lay of the land, how we are expected to behave around the gorillas & were introduced to the family we would visit (our family was the family called Sabyinyo).Robert followed the convoy carrying the other 6 members of our hiking party. We started hiking from the car across the farmland that was only recently inside the boundary of the national park. There's now a wall along to boundary to stop the farmers encroaching & to stop the buffalo destroying the farmland. When we'd asked for a short hike if posible, we didn't think a 10 minute wander across farmland before hopping over the wall into the jungle (above) was what they mean by a short hike. None the less, that was our hike & we weren't complaining. We've since heard horror stories about 3 hr hikes followed by an hour of hacking through stinging, thorny jungle. We had to bush bash for a couple of minutes to find the animals. We could hear the gorillas even from the wall & could see evidence of both buffalo & gorillas on the ground (and nearly stepped in it a few times). Then there he was, Guhonda (above & below), the big silverback. He's the biggest gorilla in the park & the guides said he weighs 250kg. I find it hard to believe (maybe they mean pounds), be he's a big boy for sure.
As we set ourselves & were quiet, we became aware of other members of the family rustling around in the vegetation. GiIhishamwotsi (or maybe it's Shirimpumu) was up in a tree eating leaves (below).
Ishejabben (nicknamed Big Ben) is an odd one. He is easy to spot thanks to his bald head.
Kampanga (above) has a new baby of only a few weeks. This family not only has the biggest gorilla in the park, but also the smallest (below). Cute little guy isn't he? Some say he looks like Elvis.
Most of the family settled down for a sleep with Guhonda the protector of the group with one eye open for trouble.
Meet Gukunda (above & below), the Prince. He's Guhonda's son & a silverback in training. Apparently Guhonda knows that he's getting old & his reign will be over soon. He lets Gukunda take some privileges with the females that in normal circumstances he would not. Gukunda's quite a big boy like his father. Apparently he eats a lot & chooses the plants that ferment in his stomach the most. Consequently he is drunk much of the time. We could see he was a bit grumpy & a bit unsteady.
The other members of the group were quite elusive. They were either in really dark places where the camera couldn't see them or in the thickets where we couldn't see them.
Unfortunately, we had to leave. In the best interest of the animals, the human interaction is kept to an hour per day. It felt like 5 minutes, but we'd been there over an hour!
Back at the park HQ, we were all given certificates to prove we were there (because the photos aren't proof enough).Robert drove us to a lodge on a ridge nestled between two nearby lakes. We had lunch and watched a storm cross the lake & past us. It was all very civilized.
The local birdlife wasn't too fussed even if one of the white necked ravens did look a bit bedraggled.
That night was more of the same as far as dinner & power failures. We turned in for the night still buzzing from the experience.

Wednesday, 13 October 2010

Day 27 - Kigali & Drive to Musanze

The first day in Africa started in style. We had a nice breakfast at the hotel overlooking a forested valley. We were close to the equator, but it wasn't hot. Kigali is 1500m above sea level and that takes the edge off the temperature.
Robert picked us up around 9 & took us for a drive around Kigali. The thing that became apparent quite quickly was the hills. The whole city is built on a series of ridges & valleys. The city centre (above) is located on top of a hill. It isn't what I'd call a big city, but there are a lot of people living there. The slums (below) are scattered across the city but are being replaced with new housing built by the government & partially paid for by foreign aid.
Unfortunately Rwanda is most famous for its bloody past, particularly the genocide of 1994 when 850,000 people were killed. Robert took us to two of the churches where some of the atrocities were carried out on defenceless people who were sheltering there. They're disturbing legacies preserved to remind locals & visitors alike not to ever let it occur again.
After lunch in a westernised cafe' we visited the genocide memorial (above). The audio tour & displays in this purpose built facility tell the story of the centuries of turmoil in the country leading up to the events of 1994. You shouldn't visit Rwanda without coming to the memorial.
The outdoor gardens are a peaceful way to collect your thoughts.
We started the long twisty drive to Musanze, the township close to Volcanoes National park & the border with the Congo. The terrain quickly became even more rugged. The roads weren't in good shape & the drivers were just as crazy as the South Americans. Workplace Health & Safety clearly hasn't arrived yet (below). I guess if you can avoid riding up the steep hills, you take the free hitch. The thing that is most apparent in Rwanda is there are people everywhere & every square inch of land is farmed. Nowhere I have ever been before has I seen a place completely overrun by people. It's a problem the world over.
Finally we reached the outskirts of Musanze where we caught our first glimpse of the towering volcanoes of the national park and the home of the Mountain Gorillas.
There isn't much to do in Musanze. It's very much a farming trade hub and isn't tourist friendly. I wouldn't say it was dangerous (or Rwanda generally), there just isn't much to do so we hung about at the hotel for the afternoon. Dinner was interesting. The food was good, but we battled with power outages that plunged the whole town into darkness. It appears that the infrastructure destroyed in 1994 hasn't quite been fully restored.

Tuesday, 12 October 2010

Day 26 - Transit to Rwanda

A 4am taxi ride to Heathrow was the start of a very long day's travel. Rwanda is a bit tricky to get to as only a small number of airlines fly there.We flew with Brussels Airlines (Rwanda is a former Belgian colony) but it meant we had to transit through Brussels. We had two things against us. The hour & a half flight from London on the Avro RJ85 (above) was delayed & the airport in Brussels is a mess with the terminal splintered and connected only by bus. We even had to get on a bus from the first aircrat to the terminal. It was a major (and sometimes confusing) scramble but we made it onto the A330 (apologies for the blurred photo below) bound for Africa. The airline attendants are really nice and the service good on Brussels Airlines, but there's no entertainment system in the head rest in front of you. The scenery was clouds over Europe & Egypt & the Sudan were a featureless brown desert from the air. The long flight was very, very long. It was 9.30pm local time when we touched down in Kigali, the capital of Rwanda.We were met at the airport by our personal guide, Robert (below). He was recommended by one of Kerri's work friends who had been over there with a medical team. Robert takes the team on safaris every year when they visit. One of the big problems with travelling in Africa is knowing who to trust. Robert is definitely one of those people. http://rwandaadventuresafaris.com/
Robert dropped us at the hotel and organised to pick us up in the morning.
The Africa Adventure was about to begin!

Monday, 11 October 2010

Day 25 - London Sights

The last day in England started with a tour of St Pauls Cathedral. It's an impressive structure but nowhere near as interesting as Notre Dame & they don't let you take photos inside! We did the self guided tour around the main floor. We climbed the many stairs to the whispering galley inside the bottom of the dome. From there we exited to the outside where we had an unobstructed view of the city (above). After admiring the view, we climbed the stairwell inside the skin of the dome to the top spire. It wasn't any better than where we'd just come from, but we had to say we'd done it. We also descended all the way to the crypt to check out all the famous dead people before exiting through the gift shop...???
From St Paul's we made our way to Buckingham Palace. After all, you just have to include the palace in a trip to London.The palace is guarded by both the police (below) & the army (above).
We walked along Constitution Hill (above) beside the palace all the way to Wellington Arch where the New Zealand & Australian war memorials are.
The Australian War Memorial is quite clever. They have every town in Australia written on the wall with some brighter so they spell out the places where the Australians have fought over the years.
As a joke I said to Kerri "I'll bet you can't find Mullumbimby" figuring that she'd never find it amongst so many towns. Almost immediately she said, "Found it!". Sure enough, there is was. Couldn't believe it!
We walked along the edge of Hyde Park for a little way. The squirrels were all busy stocking up for the winter.We arrived at The Serpentine (below) which is the big lake that dominates the park.
As for St James's Park, there's no shortage of birdlife.
We had to leave the park (passing the Albert memorial above) because Kerri & Julie had an appointment to have high tea at the Kensington Hotel.I would leave them for the rest of the afternoon opting instead to spend the time in the science museum & the Natual history Museum.
The Science museum has some very old & some very famous machines including Puffing Billy (below) which is the very first commercial locomotive. And it isn't just a replica.
Each area in its 4 floors has a different theme from plane to cars to space vehicles. There is a whole floor dedicated to water craft.
Next door is the Natuaral History Museum (entrance below). I was slightly creped out by this. I've become accustomed to visiting modern zoos with the animals not only alive, but in quite natural surroundings. Having not been to a museum for many years, I'd forgotten that stuffed animals are somewhat disturbing.There were some very cool dinosaur fossils including a large number of oceanic reptiles found on the English coastline. The second entrance was decorated for an exhibition (below). I'm not sure what it was about, but it looked the part. The dinosaur section had some lifelike animatronics including the two raptors (above) and a scary looking T-rex (below).
We all met back at the hotel at Earl's Court and had dinner at a pub around the corner. We said our final good-byes to Julie and spent the late evening trying to do our laundry so we'd have something to wear in Africa.