Wednesday, 6 October 2010

Day 20 - London Sights

A new day, a new city & a new country. We landed at Heathrow & slipped through customs without much fuss. Kerri's sister Julie met us at the airport & ushered us onto the tube to Earl's Court where our hotel was. Despite being early, we were able to check in & have a shower. More importantly we were able to offload our luggage so we could go out sightseeing for the day. We were straight back on the tube & surfaced again at Piccadilly Circus (above). Julie lives in London & was our tour guide for the day (and the next few). The girls wanted to stop at New Zealand House (above) for some reason (something to do with country of birth or some rot).
Just around the corner is Trafalgar Square (above). Tourist central! There are 4 plinths on the corners of the square & one of them has a changing feature. When we were there, there was a huge (Lord Nelson's) ship in a bottle occupying the spot (below). There were the obligatory tourist shots like the phone box.
We stopped for lunch at a pub near Trafalgar Square before continuing on our tour. The soldiers at the Royal Cavalry were interesting with their funny hats, even funnier crutch high boots & their even funnier high knee marching.
Next door to the cavalry is No.10 behind it's wall of steel bars.
No tour around central London is complete without a visit to Westminster Abbey.
We wandered past Scotland Yard.
We spent some time in St James's Park. There's a bridge across the lake where you can look west & see Buckingham Palace (above) & east to the Royal Cavalry (below).
Strangely the lake is home to Canada Geese amongst a myriad of other waterfowl.
Grey squirrels are all over St James's park (& all the other London parks). They're extremely cheeky & not even slightly afraid of humans.
Kerri & Julie took the tour of Churchill's war rooms. I opted out with some jet lag issues.
We got our first proper look at the London Eye. It wouldn't be the last time. You can see it from all over the city.
Later in the afternoon we crossed the Thames so we could see the tourist attractions from another angle. The Houses of Parliament (below) are unobstructed from the South Bank.
Below is the Millennium Bridge with St. Paul's Cathedral in the background.
The Globe Theatre is also along the South Bank.
We were getting pretty weary by sunset when we got our first good look at the Tower Bridge.
We headed back to Earl's Court for dinner at Nandos. We said goodnight to Julie who headed for home. We checked in at the hotel & let sleep take over at long last.

Tuesday, 5 October 2010

Day 19 - Fly to London

It was time to be on the move again. We were about to leave North America for Europe. In less than 24 hours we would be in London!
We checked out of the hotel after breakfast & drove the 150kms back to Nainimo. We dropped the car off at the hire company & caught a cab to the airport.We had a fairly lengthy wait at the tiny airport before taking the 15 minute Jazz flight back to the mainland.
We had three hours to kill in Vancouver Airport. There isn't a huge amount to do, but at least we were in the international section so there were a few restaurants & duty free shops to fill in time. There is also a big aquarium with some of the local fish & plant life. Aquariums are like fire & waterfalls, you can sit there & watch them for ages.
We flew out of Canada late in the afternoon on a Being 777 (above). The flight initially took us over the mountains while the sun was still up. Fortunately the sky was clear so we caught a great look from above. We could see the many blue lakes & hugh glaciers along the way.
I'm pretty sure we crossed the final mountain range just north of Jasper just on last light. I could see the lights & flares from the oil wells of northern Alberta before it all went pitch black. The rest of the flight took us over the northern provinces of Canada & then over Greenland, unfortunately under the cover of darkness. By the time dawn broke, we were a few hundred kilometres off the Irish west coast.

So long beautiful Canada.... for now.

Monday, 4 October 2010

Day 18 - Quadra Island

It was to be the last full day on Vancouver Island. We'd been mulling over whether to sign up for a whale watching cruise. If we hadn't seen the whales the day before we would have gone but the game had changed. The wind picked up early & the tour operator told us that the whales from yesterday had scattered & the northern pod was last seen heading toward Telegraph Cove (a 2 hr boat trip to the north). The risk of not seeing whales was high as was the price. With the wind very likely to make the trip hard going, we decided to give it a miss.
The decision was a good one because by 10 o'clock the wind was howling! Plan B. Explore Quadra Island. Quadra Island is one of the larger islands sitting between the V.I. & the mainland. It only took 15 mins to get there on the car ferry (above).Cape Mudge to the south west of the island is home to a lighthouse (above). We looked out to where we were floating amongst all the orcas the day before and across the passage to Campbell River. Not long after leaving the lighthouse we saw a bald eagle above us. I couldn't help stopping the car & taking its photo.The south east of the island is home to Rebecca Spit (above & below), a peninsular that spears off the island creating Heriot Bay (below). Discovery Passage islands are a natural dumping ground for the floating logs that wash out of the forests. The Rebecca Spit beaches are no exception. Some of the weird shapes of the smooth logs make for nice photos.We drove to the other side of the bay to Heriot Cove where the ferry to a near-by island leaves from. There is a neat little hotel called the Heriot Bay Inn (how inventive). What better place to have lunch, shelter from the wind & look out over the marina (below). It was all very civilized & lunch was very nice. We thought how lucky we were to be in the pub rather than being bashed around in a boat. After lunch we followed the main road to the north east of the island. Eventually we came to a bridge between two lakes (Village Bay Lake pictured below). It is probably the most uninspiring lake I'd seen in Canada. On the other side of the bridge the road turned into a dirt road. We explored a little further, but soon realised it was a road for residents, not tourists so we turned around & headed back.
Somehow we missed the turn off to the dirt road that goes to the north of the island & ended up nearly back at Cape Mudge! We were getting low on fuel & it was getting late in the afternoon so we caught the next ferry back to Campbell River. The roads to the north of the island are pretty much dirt logging roads so it may well have been a good plan anyway.
Back on the mainland we hung around near or in the hotel & watched the world go by. Just before 5 we drove out to Moose Falls (above) in the hope of seeing 5 o'clock Charlie.He was a little late that day but only by 10 minutes. Lucky a Kingfisher was there to entertain us.
When Charlie showed up he set about scooping dead salmon out of the pond. The difference this time was that he was aware of us & kept dragging the salmon into the trees to eat them. Sadly we said goodbye to Charlie & headed back to town.We had dinner at the nice seafood place from a couple of nights previous.
It was a good outcome for the day that would have been a lot less pleasant on a small boat in rough weather.

Sunday, 3 October 2010

Day 17 - Whale & Bear Cruise

Animal watching is always a tricky mix of luck & making your own luck. We'd maybe left it a bit late in the season for both whales & bears but the planets aligned for us & the days of frustration with the weather & the tour company paid off. We were booked on a grizzly tour & the weather was perfect! No wind... check. No clouds... check. No rain... check. Enough other interested parties for the boat to sail... check.
As we were boarding the captain said to us, "what would you say if I told you we were going to see orcas today?". We could hardly believe our ears because the whales had been making themselves scarce for some days & we had almost resigned ourselves to not seeing them. Not 10 minutes from the marina we were in the middle of a super-pod of Orcas! Two or three resident pods had come together in a massive group of 20-30. In the background of the photo above you can see Campbell River.We were surrounded by these awesome creatures that are nearly as intelligent as us & 10 times as heavy. The family group above are part of one of G-Pod who are one of the northern resident pods. They are rarely seen as far south as Campbell River. The big male is called Shushartie (G39), the bigger of the females is his younger sister Tatchu (G52), another female Glide (G54) (far left) and a very young & unnamed calf. The calf is believed to be Tatchu's. I sent some of the photos to the Vancouver Aquarium who are the central point for all things orca. It turns out these are the first ones they've seen of this calf. Everywhere we looked they were surfacing & acting up.I would have been quite happy to hang around them for hours, but we had a tight schedule to meet the grizzlies two hours away. 20 minutes would have to be enough that day.
We crossed the straights to Bute Inlet that cuts into the mainland (grizzlies don't live on Vancouver Island). It was a little cloudy but conditions were great for boating. Bute Inlet can be a nasty place for a boat if the wind & the tides are fighting each other (and often do). The only problem was the debris (mainly trees) littering the inlet thanks to storms the previous week.We arrived at the Homalco First Nations land.
We had lunch at the dock before boarding the bus for the bumpy ride along a dirt logging track to visit the grizzlies.
We passed a number of towers like the one below before stopping at tower 4. The guides walked us 50m down the road to tower 5 (below). It's the very last one that is positioned right where two rivers meet.
From the tower we had a clear view of some prime salmon fishing grounds (below).After 10 minutes we saw our first bear & he was a big one.
The bear was so intent on hunting fish that he didn't even notice the excited tourists in our tower.
He crossed in front of us before crossing the river to the far bank still searching for food.
Before the first bear had vanished into the bush, another had appeared from straight in front of us (below). The two hour procession had begun.
A juvenile bald eagle (below) interrupted briefly.
Our second bear spotted a target & suddenly leapt into the water but unfortunately failed in its bid for a meal.
Bear after bear appeared from around the bend.
Eventually the guides herded us reluctantly back into the bus. They stopped at Tower 1 for only 5 minutes but even then we saw two bears.
As we left tower 1, our path was blocked by a huge male (below). He wasn't moving for any bus full of tourists. On his own terms he took a left turn into the bush & merged into the shadows.
There was no mucking around back at the boat. Late in the season the daylight hours are short & navigating the in the dark with all the floating logs isn't something any boat captain wants to do.

What a great day! Whales & Bears in the same day!